OBD codes / P2135

OBD-II trouble code

P2135

Serious

Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A/B Voltage Correlation

Take P2135 seriously. It typically forces reduced-power mode, sharply limiting acceleration — which can be unsafe pulling into traffic or onto a highway. Drive gently and briefly to a shop if you must, but get it diagnosed before relying on the car.

Diagnose P2135 on my car →Free · specific to your year, make & model

What this code means

Electronic throttle and pedal assemblies carry two position sensors ('A' and 'B') that should always agree. P2135 sets when the two disagree beyond a safe margin — the computer no longer trusts the throttle reading. The most common cause is a failing throttle position sensor or throttle body (where both sensors live), but a corroded connector or wiring fault that shifts one signal can do it too. For safety the computer usually drops the engine into reduced-power 'limp' mode until it's resolved.

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Symptoms you might notice

  • Reduced-power or 'limp' mode (limited acceleration)
  • Throttle that feels dead, sluggish, or erratic
  • Stalling or rough idle
  • Check-engine light, often with a warning light

What it costs to fix

Typical range: $50–$600 · about ~0.3–1.5 hrs of labor

If the cause is…PartLabor
Connector / wiring repair$10$120~0.5–1.5 hrs
Accelerator pedal position sensor$50$250~0.3–1 hrs
Electronic throttle body$150$500~0.5–1.5 hrs

Always check connectors first — a corroded or loose connector is a cheap, common cause of two sensors disagreeing. If the sensors themselves are at fault, the pedal sensor is usually cheaper than the throttle body.

The price swings on which cause it turns out to be — so confirm the cause before paying. Diagnose P2135 for my exact vehicle →

How to fix P2135

Moderate — doable at home with common tools and patience

  1. Pull codes and freeze-frame data

    Note whether P2135 came alone or with companion throttle codes, and what conditions were recorded when it set. An intermittent fault that sets when hot or over bumps points toward a connector or harness problem rather than a dead sensor.

  2. Inspect both connectors

    Unplug the throttle body connector and the accelerator pedal connector and look for green corrosion, bent or spread pins, and water intrusion. A high-resistance pin shifts one sensor's voltage enough to break the A/B correlation — and it's the cheapest possible fix for this code.

  3. Watch both sensor voltages on a scan tool

    Graph TPS A and B (and the pedal sensors) while slowly sweeping the throttle through its range. Both traces should move smoothly in their fixed relationship; a glitch, dropout, or flat spot in one trace identifies which sensor — and which end of the system — is lying.

  4. Wiggle-test the wiring

    With live data still displayed, flex the harness sections between the computer, throttle body, and pedal. If a voltage jumps when you move a particular section, you've located a chafed or broken wire and can repair it instead of replacing parts.

  5. Replace the faulty unit and relearn

    If the glitch traces to the throttle body (where sensors A and B usually live), replace it as a unit; if to the pedal, replace the pedal assembly. Most vehicles then require a throttle relearn — some do it automatically, others need a scan tool — before the limp mode fully clears.

DIY or shop? Connector inspection and cleaning are easy DIY, and a decent scan tool with live graphing lets a patient home mechanic isolate the failing side. The shop advantage shows up at the last step: many vehicles won't come out of reduced-power mode without a proper throttle relearn, which can require an OE-level scan tool. Because this code puts the car in limp mode, don't plan on driving it around while you diagnose in stages — fix it where it sits or have it towed in.

Tools for the DIY steps: OBD2 scanner with live data graphing · Electrical contact cleaner · Multimeter with back-probe pins · Basic hand tools · Dielectric grease

Not sure which step applies to your car? Get the likely cause for your exact vehicle before buying anything for P2135.

Frequently asked

Can I drive with P2135?

Cautiously and only a short distance. It usually triggers reduced-power mode, so acceleration is sharply limited — dangerous when merging or crossing traffic. Get it diagnosed promptly rather than driving on it.

What does 'voltage correlation' mean for P2135?

The throttle/pedal system has two sensors that should always read in agreement. P2135 means their voltages no longer correlate — they disagree — so the computer can't trust the throttle position and limits power for safety.

What usually causes P2135?

A failing throttle position sensor or throttle body is common, but a corroded connector or a wiring fault that shifts one sensor's signal is a frequent, cheaper cause. Checking the connectors first can save replacing parts.

How much does it cost to fix P2135?

From a cheap connector/wiring repair to a pedal sensor or a full electronic throttle body. Diagnosis (and checking connectors first) determines which, so you don't replace a good throttle body.

Seeing P2135 on your car? Get a diagnosis specific to your exact year, make and model.

Diagnose P2135 for my vehicle

Symptoms that trigger P2135

Drivers who get this code often notice one of these — each has its own likely-causes and cost guide:

Related trouble codes

Don’t have a scanner yet? A ~$25 Bluetooth adapter reads codes like P2135 from your phone — see our honest guide to the best OBD2 Bluetooth adapters.

Generic OBD-II reference. Manufacturer-specific behavior varies — confirm with a scan tool and, for safety-related codes, a professional inspection.