P0013 code: Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1, Exhaust)
P0013 means camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1, Exhaust). The code says where to look, not what failed — the fix depends on which cause your car actually has.
What P0013 means
This is the exhaust-cam twin of P0010. Engines with variable valve timing on the exhaust camshaft use an electrically controlled oil solenoid to advance or retard it, and P0013 means the computer detected an electrical fault — an open, short, or out-of-range resistance — in the Bank 1 exhaust cam actuator circuit. The usual suspects are the solenoid winding itself and the wiring or connector feeding it; it is not a report that the cam is in the wrong position (that would be P0014/P0015). Low or dirty oil is the classic aggravator, because sludge can bind the solenoid plunger. With the circuit faulted the computer holds the exhaust cam at its default position, so the engine runs but you may notice a rough idle, reduced economy, and on some engines a failed emissions test.
P0013 symptoms
- Check-engine light
- Rough or unstable idle
- Slightly reduced power and fuel economy
- Possible emissions-test failure
What it costs to fix P0013
Typical range: $80–$400 · about ~0.3–1.5 hrs of labor
| If the cause is… | Part | Labor |
|---|---|---|
| Exhaust-cam VVT/VCT solenoid | $30–$150 | ~0.3–1.5 hrs |
| Wiring / connector repair | $10–$120 | ~0.5–1.5 hrs |
Like the intake-side version, the solenoid is a cheap part usually mounted on the valve cover or cylinder head, so most fixes are quick. Chasing an intermittent wiring fault, or solenoids buried under engine covers, pushes the price toward the high end.
The price swings on which cause it turns out to be — so confirm the cause before paying. Diagnose P0013 for my exact vehicle →
How to fix P0013
Moderate — doable at home with common tools and patience
- Check the dipstick, then note every stored code
Confirm the oil is at the full mark, reasonably clean, and the grade shown on the filler cap — sludge binds the solenoid plunger and should be dealt with whatever else you find. Then see whether P0010, P0020, or P0023 logged too: several actuator-circuit codes together point to a shared fuse, feed, or harness connector, while a lone P0013 narrows it to the Bank 1 exhaust solenoid and its pigtail.
- Make sure you're testing the exhaust-cam solenoid
On dual-VVT engines the intake and exhaust oil-control solenoids often sit side by side on Bank 1 with look-alike connectors, so confirm which is which from a diagram or the wire colors. Then check the exhaust unit's plug for oil wicking up the wires, a broken locking tab, or insulation baked brittle by heat from the exhaust side of the head.
- Ohm the winding and flex the lead
Unplug the solenoid and measure across its two terminals, comparing the reading with the figure for your engine in the service manual. An open (OL) or a near-zero short condemns it outright; keep the meter connected and flex the short lead where one is fitted, since a conductor that breaks only when it moves causes the intermittent version of this code.
- Command the actuator and back-probe the harness
Where your scan tool has bidirectional controls, toggle the Bank 1 exhaust cam actuator with the engine warm and idling: a good circuit clicks and the actual exhaust cam angle shifts. If the solenoid ohms correctly but nothing happens, back-probe the two pins for supply voltage and for the computer's switching signal (the wiring diagram shows which is which) to find the missing side.
- Repair, refresh the oil, and recheck
Replace a failed solenoid with a quality part and a lightly oiled O-ring, or splice a damaged wire with solder and heat-shrink. If the oil was dark or overdue, change it now so the new plunger isn't working in sludge, then clear the code. A P0013 that returns with a good solenoid and verified wiring points at the computer's driver, which is a shop diagnosis.
DIY or shop? The Bank 1 exhaust solenoid is usually reachable without much disassembly, so the dipstick check, connector inspection, resistance reading, and solenoid replacement are realistic home jobs with a multimeter and a socket set. A bidirectional scanner makes the command test quick but isn't essential. It turns into shop work when the break or short is hidden inside the harness run back to the computer, or when the solenoid and wiring both test good and the code still returns — that points at the module's output driver.
Tools for the DIY steps: Digital multimeter · Bidirectional scan tool (for the actuator command test) · Back-probe pins · Wiring diagram for your engine · Socket set · Solder, heat-shrink, and a heat gun for wire repairs
Not sure which step applies to your car? Get the likely cause for your exact vehicle before buying anything for P0013.
Start a case with P0013 and your car. Redline weighs these causes against what your car shows, and names the check that would settle it before you buy parts.
Can I drive with P0013?
Redline can’t determine from a symptom or code alone whether your car is safe to drive.
P0013: common questions
What's the difference between P0013 and P0010?
Both are actuator-circuit codes on Bank 1, but P0010 is the intake camshaft's solenoid and P0013 is the exhaust camshaft's. They diagnose the same way — check the wiring and connector, then test the solenoid — just on different solenoids.
Can an oil change fix P0013?
Occasionally. The code itself is electrical, but sludge from low or overdue oil can jam the solenoid plunger and set it. If your oil is old, changing it with the correct grade is a cheap first move; if the code returns, test the solenoid and wiring.
Can I drive with P0013?
There's no way to judge that from the code alone. The engine falls back to fixed exhaust-cam timing, so it is protected but idles rougher and burns a little more fuel. Fix it soon — and note an active check-engine light typically fails emissions testing.
Is the exhaust cam solenoid expensive?
No — it is usually an inexpensive part, and on most engines it sits accessibly on the valve cover or head, so labor is under an hour or two. Wiring repairs are similarly modest once the fault is found.
Related trouble codes
Don’t have a scanner yet? A ~$25 Bluetooth adapter reads codes like P0013 from your phone. See our guide to the best OBD2 Bluetooth adapters. Run a repair shop? See Redline for shops.
Generic OBD-II reference. Manufacturer-specific behavior varies. Confirm with a scan tool and, for safety-related codes, a professional inspection. Cost ranges are reference ranges, not quotes.
Seeing P0013 on your car?
Every problem becomes a Case. Tell Redline what the car is doing: it shows what the evidence supports, what’s still missing, and what to check next, before you approve a repair.
“Inner pad ~1 mm. Outer pad 3 mm.”
Next: check the slide pins move freely before buying parts.