P0223 code: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit High
P0223 means throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit High. The code says where to look, not what failed — the fix depends on which cause your car actually has.
What P0223 means
P0223 means the signal from throttle/pedal position sensor B is stuck at the high end of its voltage range — higher than any real throttle position could produce. Where its sibling P0222 is the signal pinned low, P0223 is the signal pinned high, which usually points to a short to voltage, a broken ground for the sensor, or an internal sensor failure. Because sensor B is one half of a redundant pair, the computer immediately sees it disagreeing with sensor A and typically limits engine power for safety. On most modern cars sensor B is built into the electronic throttle body or the accelerator pedal assembly, so the fix is often a connector/wiring repair or replacement of that assembly. It's an electrical fault, so symptoms can be intermittent — flickering with vibration, moisture, or temperature.
P0223 symptoms
- Reduced-power or 'limp' mode
- Poor, delayed, or erratic throttle response
- High or unstable idle
- Stalling in some cases
- Check-engine light, sometimes intermittent
What it costs to fix P0223
Typical range: $50–$600 · about ~0.3–1.5 hrs of labor
| If the cause is… | Part | Labor |
|---|---|---|
| Wiring / connector repair | $10–$120 | ~0.5–1.5 hrs |
| Throttle position sensor (where separately replaceable) | $40–$200 | ~0.3–1 hrs |
| Electronic throttle body (sensors integrated) | $150–$500 | ~0.5–1.5 hrs |
A 'circuit high' code is often a wiring or ground problem rather than the sensor itself, so a careful electrical check can save the cost of a throttle body. If the sensor is separately replaceable (mostly older designs), the part is cheap.
The price swings on which cause it turns out to be — so confirm the cause before paying. Diagnose P0223 for my exact vehicle →
How to fix P0223
Moderate — doable at home with common tools and patience
- Check whether sensor A or other 5-volt codes are stored
A high code on sensor B alone usually means trouble on B's own circuit. If sensor A, the pedal sensors, or other 5-volt sensors are also faulted, look at shared feeds and grounds first. Freeze-frame data showing the fault set over bumps or in rain hints at wiring or water rather than the sensor.
- Open the connector and look for water
Unplug the throttle body connector — or the pedal connector, if sensor B lives there — and check for moisture, corrosion, and spread terminals. Water bridging the reference and signal pins is a known way to drive a signal high; dry and clean the connector, then refit it until the latch clicks.
- Back-probe signal against reference at rest
Key on, measure sensor B's signal and reference at the connector. If the signal reads the same as the reference, or above it, the circuit is shorted to voltage or the sensor's ground is open. A signal at a normal rest value while the code is stored points to an intermittent fault you'll need to provoke with a wiggle.
- Prove the ground and hunt for a short to voltage
Measure voltage drop from sensor B's ground pin to battery negative; a high reading means an open or corroded ground. Then, with the sensor unplugged, see whether the signal wire still carries voltage — if it does, that wire is touching a powered circuit, and the harness repair comes before any new parts.
- Replace the throttle body or pedal and relearn
With the wiring verified, sensor B has failed internally; replace the assembly that houses it and perform the relearn from your service manual. Clear codes and confirm the reduced-power warning stays off through a drive that includes firm acceleration and closed-throttle coasting.
DIY or shop? The connector inspection and back-probe tests are approachable for a careful home mechanic with a multimeter, and they decide whether you're buying a part or fixing a wire. A pedal assembly is easy to replace; a throttle body is still bolt-on but costs more and usually needs a relearn, sometimes with a capable scan tool. Shorts to voltage buried in the engine harness are tedious to trace, which is a fair point to hand it to a shop — especially as the car may be stuck in limp mode meanwhile.
Tools for the DIY steps: Digital multimeter with back-probe pins · OBD-II scan tool with live data · Electrical contact cleaner · Socket set and Torx bits · Wiring repair supplies
Not sure which step applies to your car? Get the likely cause for your exact vehicle before buying anything for P0223.
Start a case with P0223 and your car. Redline weighs these causes against what your car shows, and names the check that would settle it before you buy parts.
Can I drive with P0223?
Redline can’t determine from a symptom or code alone whether your car is safe to drive.
P0223: common questions
What does 'circuit high' mean on P0223?
The voltage from sensor B is stuck near the top of its range — a reading no real throttle position would produce. That usually means a short to voltage, a lost sensor ground, or an internally failed sensor, rather than a mechanical throttle problem.
How is P0223 different from P0221 or P0222?
All three involve sensor B. P0221 means the signal is present but implausible (range/performance), P0222 means it's stuck low, and P0223 means it's stuck high. Stuck-high faults point most strongly at wiring shorts or a broken ground.
Why does a sensor code cut my engine power?
On drive-by-wire cars the computer controls the throttle based on these sensors. When one reads impossibly high, the computer can't trust its throttle data, so it restricts power on purpose to prevent unintended acceleration.
Can P0223 come and go?
It can — electrical faults like chafed insulation or a corroded ground often appear with vibration, heat, or moisture and then clear. An intermittent P0223 still deserves diagnosis, because it can strand you in limp mode at a bad moment.
Related trouble codes
Don’t have a scanner yet? A ~$25 Bluetooth adapter reads codes like P0223 from your phone. See our guide to the best OBD2 Bluetooth adapters. Run a repair shop? See Redline for shops.
Generic OBD-II reference. Manufacturer-specific behavior varies. Confirm with a scan tool and, for safety-related codes, a professional inspection. Cost ranges are reference ranges, not quotes.
Seeing P0223 on your car?
Every problem becomes a Case. Tell Redline what the car is doing: it shows what the evidence supports, what’s still missing, and what to check next, before you approve a repair.
“Inner pad ~1 mm. Outer pad 3 mm.”
Next: check the slide pins move freely before buying parts.