P0348 code: Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High (Bank 2)
P0348 means camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High (Bank 2). The code says where to look, not what failed — the fix depends on which cause your car actually has.
What P0348 means
P0348 is the Bank 2 cam-sensor circuit reading HIGH — pegged at or above its maximum expected level — the mirror image of P0347 (circuit low). Bank 2 is the cylinder bank opposite cylinder 1, so this code only appears on V-type and flat engines. The computer expects an alternating signal as the cam spins; a constant high level usually means a failed sensor, an open circuit, a short to voltage, or a corroded connector somewhere in that bank's sensor wiring. The fallout is the same as any lost cam signal: extended cranking, rough running, stalling, and on some engines an intermittent no-start — frequently heat-related and maddeningly inconsistent. It's usually a cheap electrical fix, but because stalling is on the table it shouldn't wait.
P0348 symptoms
- Hard starting or extended cranking
- Stalling or rough running
- Hesitation and reduced power
- Occasional no-start on some engines
- Check-engine light
What it costs to fix P0348
Typical range: $80–$350 · about ~0.2–1 hrs of labor
| If the cause is… | Part | Labor |
|---|---|---|
| Camshaft position sensor (Bank 2) | $30–$120 | ~0.2–1 hrs |
| Wiring / connector repair | $10–$120 | ~0.5–1.5 hrs |
Normally a cheap, quick sensor replacement; the Bank 2 sensor's location on some V engines (toward the firewall) can add modest labor, and intermittent wiring faults add diagnostic time.
The price swings on which cause it turns out to be — so confirm the cause before paying. Diagnose P0348 for my exact vehicle →
How to fix P0348
Moderate — doable at home with common tools and patience
- Confirm the bank and note how the fault behaves
P0348 is a Bank 2 fault, so it only appears on V and flat engines, on the bank without cylinder 1. Record whether it set cold or hot and whether starts have been slow or the engine has stalled — a code that appears only after heat soak suggests a connection or sensor that opens up when hot. If it has stalled, don't rely on the car until it's fixed.
- Check the inline connector as well as the sensor plug
On many engines the Bank 2 cam sensor lead joins the main harness at an inline connector near the rear of the engine. Separate both that junction and the sensor plug, and check for spread terminals, corrosion, or a lock that never latched — any one of them can open the signal and let it read high.
- Voltage-drop the sensor ground while cranking
With everything plugged in, back-probe the Bank 2 sensor ground and measure to battery negative while an assistant cranks the engine. More than a few tenths of a volt means a weak ground that can keep the signal from reaching its low state; trace it to the splice or the computer pin rather than replacing the sensor.
- Test the signal wire for a short to voltage
Unplug the sensor and the computer, then test the signal wire for continuity to the reference wire and to any 12-volt circuit sharing the loom, such as coil or injector feeds. A melted section where the loom touched the exhaust crossover can fuse wires together; repair it with solder and heat-shrink and re-route the harness away from heat.
- Fit the correct Bank 2 sensor and test hot and cold
If feed, ground, and signal wiring all pass, replace the sensor, making sure the part is listed for Bank 2 — on some engines the two banks use different sensors. Clear the code and confirm normal cranking time on a cold start and again on a heat-soaked restart; a reluctor or computer fault is the rare remaining cause.
DIY or shop? Every test here is multimeter work, and most owners with a wiring diagram can find an open ground or a damaged terminal themselves. What decides DIY versus shop is access and patience: the Bank 2 sensor and its inline connector may sit at the back of the engine where you work by feel, and an intermittent heat-related open can take hours to catch. If you can reach it, do it; if it needs intake or cowl removal or the fault won't show itself, a shop's time is well spent.
Tools for the DIY steps: Digital multimeter · Back-probe pins · Wiring diagram · Socket set with long extensions · Solder, heat-shrink tubing, and a heat gun · Terminal release tools
Not sure which step applies to your car? Get the likely cause for your exact vehicle before buying anything for P0348.
Start a case with P0348 and your car. Redline weighs these causes against what your car shows, and names the check that would settle it before you buy parts.
Can I drive with P0348?
Redline can’t determine from a symptom or code alone whether your car is safe to drive.
P0348: common questions
What's the difference between P0348 and P0347?
Both are Bank 2 cam sensor circuit faults; P0347 is the signal stuck low (short to ground, dead sensor) and P0348 is it stuck high (open circuit, short to voltage, failed sensor). Diagnosis is the same either way: connector, wiring, then sensor.
Why does the problem come and go?
Marginal sensors and connections often fail with heat and vibration — the signal drops out when the engine bay is hot, then returns after cooling. That's why P0348 cars often have a history of random long cranks or a no-start that 'fixes itself.' The sensor circuit is still the culprit.
Can I drive with P0348?
A code by itself can't settle that. Many engines fall back on the crank sensor and the other bank's cam sensor, but stalling and intermittent no-starts are the real risk, so get it inspected promptly and don't rely on the car for important trips before the repair.
How much does it cost to fix P0348?
Usually inexpensive — a cheap sensor and typically under an hour of labor, slightly more if the Bank 2 sensor is awkward to reach on your engine. A wiring repair costs about the same once the fault is located.
Related trouble codes
Don’t have a scanner yet? A ~$25 Bluetooth adapter reads codes like P0348 from your phone. See our guide to the best OBD2 Bluetooth adapters. Run a repair shop? See Redline for shops.
Generic OBD-II reference. Manufacturer-specific behavior varies. Confirm with a scan tool and, for safety-related codes, a professional inspection. Cost ranges are reference ranges, not quotes.
Seeing P0348 on your car?
Every problem becomes a Case. Tell Redline what the car is doing: it shows what the evidence supports, what’s still missing, and what to check next, before you approve a repair.
“Inner pad ~1 mm. Outer pad 3 mm.”
Next: check the slide pins move freely before buying parts.